A bunch of tour companies will offer the tour for about 30 soles (transport + guide). Truthfully, you don't really need a guide for this. The trek is really obvious. If you want to save a few bucks, here is how to get there for 10-14 soles. This will mean walking 5-10km more.
Get to the ''diplomatico'' bus station in Chachapoyas. (near Ortiz Arrieta - Libertad)
Take a bus going to ''Pedro Ruiz'' (every 30 min). Get off at Cocahuayca, just before a bridge, where a dirt road goes right to Cocachimba. The hike up this road is about 1h15min. This road is slightly uphill the whole way and is 5.3km until the office. You can maybe catch another ride on this road going up, or most likely on your way back down (1-2 soles per ride). The office is where the tour companies arrive. If you're not big on walking, take the tour. If it's a sunny day, the road up gets really hot! Prepare accordingly. After the office, the hike is another 6km one way.
Trekking distance with tour: 12km (3-4 hours)
Trekking distance without tour: 12-22km (3-6 hours)
Wednesday, August 14, 2013
Friday, August 2, 2013
Galapagos Islands - 2 weeks on a budget
Ok, so I decided to go to the Galapagos, even though I had a tight budget. I told myself that if I could find a cheap flight under 400$, I would go. So here I am, 2 days before my departure date from the Islands. It has been a lot of fun, and a very different landscape and wildlife. If you can spare about 1200$ and two weeks, then you should go!
Expenses and How to Save
Flight itinerary:
The Galapagos has three main islands; San Cristobal (East), Santa Cruz (Center), Isabela (West). To save on Ferries (30$ one way), you can try and book a flight into Santa Cruz, exiting through San Cristobal, or the other way around. That will save you one ferry (90$ instead of 120$).
AeroGal offers discount flights through Kayak: http://www.kayak.com/flights and they offer meals during flight (LAN does not)
I booked mine for 352$ through Kayak, using the given Expedia link on the flight itinerary.
If you want to book different entry/exit islands, you have to book individual flights directly with Aerogal: http://www.aerogal.com.ec/. But will not be able to get the same deals as with Kayak.
This being said, if you find a deal, its probably worth to pay an extra ferry. If not, book 2 individual flights with different entry/exit island. This will save you 30$ and half a day.
Flight = 350-450$ Actual cost = 352$
Ferry = 90-120$ Actual cost = 115$
Ferries:
If you book all your transfers through one company, you might be able to save 5-10$. Ask around to see who can give you a deal.
Ferry Taxis:
This is the biggest scam in the islands. They try and get you to pay the taxi from the port to the speedboat. This is pure bullshit as the boat can easily reach the dock. The prices are as is:
San Cristobal = 0$
Santa Cruz = 0.50$
Isabela = 1$
Sure, it's not much money, but it's a matter of principle. Buying a ferry ticket at 30$ is supposed to get you from one Island to the other. Here is how you can casually get away not paying this taxi fee:
- Sit in the front of the boat, as far away as possible from the driver
- Always wear your sunglasses, and look ahead, not making eye contact with the driver
- Never react when the driver asks for everyone to pay the fee. Just let the others pay on their free will. The driver may ask 2-3 times, stay cool.
- When the boat arrives, don't rush. Get off casually, and don't look back!!
This is what I did, and I never got asked to pay the fee. It's like they know that they are scamming us...so they don't push on it.
Snorkel gear:
Before reaching the islands, try buying a cheap snorkel mask. I bought one for 15$ and sold it for 10$ on my way out. You can snorkel in differents areas in each island. Rental is 5$/day...so it can add up if you go on your own a lot. Snorkel gear is included when booking a tour and on cruises.
Wet suit:
If you have a wet suit, bring it. They are not included in the tours nor cruises (except high end cruises, which you don't even care about) and cost 5$/day to rent. The water is very cold during July and August. Neoprene gloves are also recommended. My hands were always the first thing to go numb.
Hostals:
Contrary to what I thought, you can find cheap hostals on the Galapagos.
San Francisco (San Cristobal Island) = 10$ (basic with cold showers)
Los Amigos (Santa Cruz Island) = 12.5$ (kitchen use, water, hot shower downstairs, wifi)
Posada del Caminante (Isabela Island) = 10$ (kitchen use, water, fruit, hot showers, wifi)
Total Cost:
4 nights in San Cristobal = 40$
4 nights in Santa Cruz = 50$
5 nights in Isabela = 50$
Total = 140$
Food:
The Islands are not very popular for street food. They do however have a few set lunch options for about 3$ and have breakfasts for the same price. A burger can be bought for 5-6$. Your best option here, is finding a Hostal with kitchen use. If you want something special (for example pesto), buy it off the islands to save a few bucks. Eggs and bread are cheap and can go a long way. Pre-wrapped ice cream bars are expensive (3 times the normal cost) but you can find local made ice cream for decent price (1$ for small cone).
Total average = 10$/day x 14
Total = 140$
Places to eat:
Isabela = Pollo Sabroso, Volcanos
Alcohol:
Beer and liquor is more expensive on the Islands like anything else. But that doesn't mean you can't enjoy a cold one once in a while.
Big Pilsener = 2-3$
Rhum Bottle = 9-10$
Approximate Total = 50$ (but who's counting)
Where to buy:
Isabella: Cheap beer is sold at the Deposito, on the corner next to Pollo Sabroso
Tours:
Most tour agencies have the same prices for tours. Lunch, service and gear is what sets them apart. Ask what they offer for lunch. Don't expect much for the half day tours. Bring some hard boiled eggs and add them to the ''sandwich'' they offer.
Most of the land tours, you can do on your own. Find a buddy, and ask a taxi driver for half day cost to go wherever you want to go. Find a few buddies and lower the cost.
For tours reaching small islands, you must take a tour, and pay the big bucks.
Tours taken:
San Cristobal Land Tour = 20$ (not worth it)
San Cristobal Kicker Rock Tour = 80$ (worth it, but I skipped it)
Santa Cruz Bay Tour = 45$ (not worth it, do Tintoreras/Tuneles/Kicker rock instead)
Isabella Cerro Negro Volcano = 45$ (worth it)
Isabela Los Tuneles Snorkel Tour = 80$ (worth it)
Isabela Las Tintoreras = 45$ (worth it, but I skipped it). Tintoreas has nearly doubled in price because they have restricted access, but you can go kayaking for $12 or so.
Total = 190$
What to do for free:
San Cristobal:
- La Loberia. Walk (30 min) or take a taxi. Snorkel and see turtles, sea lions, and other. Hike all the way to the cliffs and see birdlife. (half day)
- Las Tijeretas. Walk and stop at the Interpretation Center, snorkel in the bay, hike further to some remote beaches. (half day to full day)
Santa Cruz:
- Tortuga bay. Walk and enjoy the beach, snorkel in the small bay when tide is high with marine iguanas. (half day)
- Las Grietas. You can walk there and snorkel (though there is not much to see). You can jump from different levels into the water. (half day)
Isabella:
- Concha de Perla. Go in the morning, especially when the tide is high at the time, and you have a better chance of seeing turtles, rays, maybe penguins. (half day)
- Muro de Lagrimas. Hitch a ride to go, and walk back, stopping at the numerous stops. Or rent a bike. (half day to full day)
To be expected fees:
Entrance fee to the Galapagos Islands = 100$
Galapagos immigration card = 10$
Isabela Municipal entrance fee = 5$ (paid at the dock)
Total = 115$
Various Expenses (taxis, bike rental, snacks)
Approximate Total = 80$
Grand Total: 1182$ for 14 days
Recommendations:
Time on Islands:
I would recommend 10-12 days to save a little on expenses. With 14 days, I definitely had more than enough.
Warm Clothes:
Bring some warm clothes, as it can get cold at night and during land tours. It will also warm you up after snorkeling.
Sandals:
The islands are all volcanic rocks so bring good sandals. I have been travelling with Keen's and they have saved my toes more than enough times. Here are the ones I have:
http://www.keenfootwear.com/ca/en/product/shoes/men/waterfront/newport%20h2/navy!medium%20grey
Expenses and How to Save
Flight itinerary:
The Galapagos has three main islands; San Cristobal (East), Santa Cruz (Center), Isabela (West). To save on Ferries (30$ one way), you can try and book a flight into Santa Cruz, exiting through San Cristobal, or the other way around. That will save you one ferry (90$ instead of 120$).
AeroGal offers discount flights through Kayak: http://www.kayak.com/flights and they offer meals during flight (LAN does not)
I booked mine for 352$ through Kayak, using the given Expedia link on the flight itinerary.
If you want to book different entry/exit islands, you have to book individual flights directly with Aerogal: http://www.aerogal.com.ec/. But will not be able to get the same deals as with Kayak.
This being said, if you find a deal, its probably worth to pay an extra ferry. If not, book 2 individual flights with different entry/exit island. This will save you 30$ and half a day.
Flight = 350-450$ Actual cost = 352$
Ferry = 90-120$ Actual cost = 115$
Ferries:
If you book all your transfers through one company, you might be able to save 5-10$. Ask around to see who can give you a deal.
Ferry Taxis:
This is the biggest scam in the islands. They try and get you to pay the taxi from the port to the speedboat. This is pure bullshit as the boat can easily reach the dock. The prices are as is:
San Cristobal = 0$
Santa Cruz = 0.50$
Isabela = 1$
Sure, it's not much money, but it's a matter of principle. Buying a ferry ticket at 30$ is supposed to get you from one Island to the other. Here is how you can casually get away not paying this taxi fee:
- Sit in the front of the boat, as far away as possible from the driver
- Always wear your sunglasses, and look ahead, not making eye contact with the driver
- Never react when the driver asks for everyone to pay the fee. Just let the others pay on their free will. The driver may ask 2-3 times, stay cool.
- When the boat arrives, don't rush. Get off casually, and don't look back!!
This is what I did, and I never got asked to pay the fee. It's like they know that they are scamming us...so they don't push on it.
Snorkel gear:
Before reaching the islands, try buying a cheap snorkel mask. I bought one for 15$ and sold it for 10$ on my way out. You can snorkel in differents areas in each island. Rental is 5$/day...so it can add up if you go on your own a lot. Snorkel gear is included when booking a tour and on cruises.
Wet suit:
If you have a wet suit, bring it. They are not included in the tours nor cruises (except high end cruises, which you don't even care about) and cost 5$/day to rent. The water is very cold during July and August. Neoprene gloves are also recommended. My hands were always the first thing to go numb.
Hostals:
Contrary to what I thought, you can find cheap hostals on the Galapagos.
San Francisco (San Cristobal Island) = 10$ (basic with cold showers)
Los Amigos (Santa Cruz Island) = 12.5$ (kitchen use, water, hot shower downstairs, wifi)
Posada del Caminante (Isabela Island) = 10$ (kitchen use, water, fruit, hot showers, wifi)
Total Cost:
4 nights in San Cristobal = 40$
4 nights in Santa Cruz = 50$
5 nights in Isabela = 50$
Total = 140$
Food:
The Islands are not very popular for street food. They do however have a few set lunch options for about 3$ and have breakfasts for the same price. A burger can be bought for 5-6$. Your best option here, is finding a Hostal with kitchen use. If you want something special (for example pesto), buy it off the islands to save a few bucks. Eggs and bread are cheap and can go a long way. Pre-wrapped ice cream bars are expensive (3 times the normal cost) but you can find local made ice cream for decent price (1$ for small cone).
Total average = 10$/day x 14
Total = 140$
Places to eat:
Isabela = Pollo Sabroso, Volcanos
Ask about almuezos, cenas, much cheaper than the fixed menu (Pollo Sobroson, Volcanos restaurant on Isabela).
Isabela related: The cheapest beer is at the Depository(?) near the church. Hire a bike, or walk to Muro de las Lagrimas (a fullish day walking). Tintoreas has nearly doubled in price because they hvae restricted access, but you can go kayaking for $12 or so (I didn¨t go but Jose in the posada has details), going to Concha de Perla in the morning, especially when the tide is high at the time, and you have a better chance of seeing turtles, rays, maybe penguins.
Posada del Caminante is cheap and good (you know this).
Good luck with the blog! Hope the travels are going well.
Alcohol:
Beer and liquor is more expensive on the Islands like anything else. But that doesn't mean you can't enjoy a cold one once in a while.
Big Pilsener = 2-3$
Rhum Bottle = 9-10$
Approximate Total = 50$ (but who's counting)
Where to buy:
Isabella: Cheap beer is sold at the Deposito, on the corner next to Pollo Sabroso
Tours:
Most tour agencies have the same prices for tours. Lunch, service and gear is what sets them apart. Ask what they offer for lunch. Don't expect much for the half day tours. Bring some hard boiled eggs and add them to the ''sandwich'' they offer.
Most of the land tours, you can do on your own. Find a buddy, and ask a taxi driver for half day cost to go wherever you want to go. Find a few buddies and lower the cost.
For tours reaching small islands, you must take a tour, and pay the big bucks.
Tours taken:
San Cristobal Land Tour = 20$ (not worth it)
San Cristobal Kicker Rock Tour = 80$ (worth it, but I skipped it)
Santa Cruz Bay Tour = 45$ (not worth it, do Tintoreras/Tuneles/Kicker rock instead)
Isabella Cerro Negro Volcano = 45$ (worth it)
Isabela Los Tuneles Snorkel Tour = 80$ (worth it)
Isabela Las Tintoreras = 45$ (worth it, but I skipped it). Tintoreas has nearly doubled in price because they have restricted access, but you can go kayaking for $12 or so.
Total = 190$
What to do for free:
San Cristobal:
- La Loberia. Walk (30 min) or take a taxi. Snorkel and see turtles, sea lions, and other. Hike all the way to the cliffs and see birdlife. (half day)
- Las Tijeretas. Walk and stop at the Interpretation Center, snorkel in the bay, hike further to some remote beaches. (half day to full day)
Santa Cruz:
- Tortuga bay. Walk and enjoy the beach, snorkel in the small bay when tide is high with marine iguanas. (half day)
- Las Grietas. You can walk there and snorkel (though there is not much to see). You can jump from different levels into the water. (half day)
Isabella:
- Concha de Perla. Go in the morning, especially when the tide is high at the time, and you have a better chance of seeing turtles, rays, maybe penguins. (half day)
- Muro de Lagrimas. Hitch a ride to go, and walk back, stopping at the numerous stops. Or rent a bike. (half day to full day)
To be expected fees:
Entrance fee to the Galapagos Islands = 100$
Galapagos immigration card = 10$
Isabela Municipal entrance fee = 5$ (paid at the dock)
Total = 115$
Various Expenses (taxis, bike rental, snacks)
Approximate Total = 80$
Grand Total: 1182$ for 14 days
Recommendations:
Time on Islands:
I would recommend 10-12 days to save a little on expenses. With 14 days, I definitely had more than enough.
Warm Clothes:
Bring some warm clothes, as it can get cold at night and during land tours. It will also warm you up after snorkeling.
Sandals:
The islands are all volcanic rocks so bring good sandals. I have been travelling with Keen's and they have saved my toes more than enough times. Here are the ones I have:
http://www.keenfootwear.com/ca/en/product/shoes/men/waterfront/newport%20h2/navy!medium%20grey
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